Tallinn trip

4-6 July

Our internship with Vabamu familiarized us with Tallinn’s charming streets and vibrant culture before our planned trips began. However, these structured excursions gave us new insights and experiences, revealing layers of the city’s history and contemporary significance that we had yet to discover.

On our first day, the Stanford interns gathered with the interns from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs at Vabamu, Museum of Freedom and Occupations. This was our first time meeting on this side of the Atlantic, and we bonded over French press coffee and tales of our travels. After we shook off our jet lag with adequate caffeination, Agnes led us through Vabamu’s permanent exhibition. She guided us through Estonia’s troubled 20th century history, integrating personal stories of Estonians who lived through it. Particularly impactful was the discussion of the Baltic way, a human chain from Estonia to Lithuania formed by over 2 million people which protested the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. Estonians today still share stories of participating in this demonstration of Baltic solidarity. They speak to the powerful feeling of being a part of something bigger than yourself in the name of your country’s independence. For us visitors, stories about the Baltic Way put into perspective how Estonia’s independence movement remains at the forefront of Estonian collective memory and in a lot of ways it runs parallel to Ukraine’s resistance to Russia.

At the Ministry of Foreign affairs, we attended a presentation that centered around discussion of Estonia’s unwavering commitment to its allies, especially the United States and Ukraine. We were provided with a unique perspective on Estonia’s active role on the global stage, emphasizing the country’s dedication to democratic values and international cooperation.

We also had the privilege of touring the Stenbock House, the seat of the Government of Estonia and the office of the Prime Minister. The architecture of the building itself was awe-inspiring, blending expansive classical design with modern practicality. Walking through the halls of this vital institution, we saw important political artifacts like the Estonian Declaration of Independence and the Treaty of Tartu which gave us a tangible sense of Estonia’s political history. Passing by the Prime Minister’s office, we were guided through the set up for an upcoming diplomatic visit, giving us a sense of Estonia’s methods for modern governance.

Later on, we learned how the United States interacts with modern Estonian politics in a meeting with Michael Snyder from the U.S. Embassy’s Public Affairs Office. Snyder described the close ties between the United States and Estonia, and put an emphasis on America’s commitments to public diplomacy, cultural exchange, and shared democratic values in Estonia. As many of the interns are interested in a career in foreign service, meeting with Snyder was also an opportunity to get a sense of the field, from his stories of taking the eclectic foreign service exam to his typically packed daily work schedule to the joys and challenges of moving to a new country every few years.

Shortly following, we were provided a lunch of various kinds of kringel, a traditional Estonian sweet and/or savory bread. It was so delicious that we ate and left no crumbs! Nikolai from Vabamu then gave us a wonderful tour of Tallinn’s old town, sharing fascinating stories about the city’s past, pointing out important historical sites, and bringing us to beautiful lookout points that gave breathtaking views of the entire city.

On our last day, we trekked via ferry to Aegna Island, one of 2,300 Estonian islands in the Baltic Sea! Despite the pouring rain, our group embarked on a hike led by a local tour guide deeply familiar with the island’s flora and fauna. The inclement weather did little to dampen our spirits as we trekked through the lush forests, and we stopped occasionally to pick and eat the abundant wild strawberries and blueberries that our guide pointed out along the trails. Once the rain died down, we also got to feed some very eager sheep that were our friends as long as we had bread in our hands, but were not afraid to give a solid headbutt if you took too long retrieving another piece. In the end, it turns out that nothing bonds you better than getting drenched in the rain and getting headbutted by sheep together. The day was filled with never-ending laughter.

Riga trip

19-20 July

Riga proved to be just as captivating and enlightening as Tallinn! Our two-day visit was packed with activities that allowed us to explore the city’s rich culture and past—from historical landmarks to profound discussions on foreign service, our time in Riga left us with a deeper appreciation for Latvia’s heritage and its ongoing journey towards freedom and democracy.

Our visit in Riga began right in the city’s heart, where we gathered in front of the historic Riga City Hall. With its elegant facade and centuries-old architecture, the building symbolizes the city’s long and storied past. We were treated to a guided tour culminating in a breathtaking panoramic view of Riga’s Old Town from the rooftop. Seeing the city sprawled out before us, with its mix of medieval spires and modern structures, was the perfect introduction to Riga’s unique blend of old and new.

Next, we headed to the U.S. Embassy in Riga, where we had the privilege of meeting with the U.S. Ambassador Christopher T. Robinson. This discussion was particularly inspiring as we could ask questions about the path to becoming involved in the Foreign Service. The Ambassador’s insights were invaluable, providing us with a clearer understanding of the intricacies of international diplomacy and the role of the U.S. in supporting democratic institutions worldwide. It was an eye-opening experience that underscored the importance of global cooperation and the significance of the work weare engaged in as interns.

Following the embassy visit, we made our way to the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia. Given our work at Vabamu, this visit was especially poignant as the similarities between the Latvian and Estonian stories were striking. Both nations endured decades of occupation, by the Nazis and the Soviets, before finally achieving independence. The exhibits at the museum, filled with personal accounts and historical artifacts, resonated deeply with us, highlighting recurring themes of resilience, democracy, and the unyielding desire for freedom. It was a powerful reminder of the shared history and struggles of the Baltic states.

Our visit to the Riga KGB House also illustrated the shared historical traumas of Soviet occupation. The tour of the KGB House was hauntingly familiar, with striking similarities to the KGB Prison Cells in Tallinn, where we give tours at Vabamu. Walking through the dark, cold corridors of the building, we could feel the weight of the fear and oppression that once pervaded these walls. The visit reinforced our understanding of the shared experiences of the Baltic states under Soviet rule and the deep scars left by decades of surveillance, repression, and state terror.

Our day concluded with a relaxing boat tour along the Daugava River. As we cruised, the city’s architecture and vibrant cityscape seemed to come alive in the glow of the afternoon sun.

Our second day in Riga began at the Latvian National Library, an architectural marvel aptly nicknamed the “Castle of Light.” The library’s striking design, with its towering glass facade and sharp angles, is a modern symbol of Latvia’s dedication to education and culture. During our tour, we delved into the history of the printing press in Latvia, learning how the dissemination of knowledge played a crucial role in the country’s cultural development. One of the highlights was visiting the JFK Reading Room, a space frequently used by the U.S. Embassy for meetings, which symbolizes the strong cultural ties between Latvia and the United States.

After, we journeyed to the Latvian National Museum of Art, home to an extensive collection of Baltic art. Our tour focused on the works of Janis Rozentāls, a pioneering Latvian painter who played a crucial role in revolutionizing the art scene in Latvia during the early 20th century, particularly in the post-independence period. The tour was incredibly informative, shedding light on the evolution of Latvian art and how it reflects the nation’s tumultuous history and cultural identity.

Tartu trip

2-3 August

As current university students, visiting Estonia’s foremost student city was a joy. On our first day there, we were given a tour by a Tartu University graduate, Gregor Rahuoja, who not only told us interesting historical facts about the city but was also able to add personal stories that brought the city to life (such as when he showed us the spot where he proposed to his wife!)

Following our lovely walking tour, we had the chance to learn how to cook traditional Estonian cuisine. After about an hour of bonding over steaming pots and sizzling pans, we were able to get a literal taste of Estonian culture through  a feast of open-faced sandwiches with fish and eggs (called kiiluvõileivad), lentil pate-stuffed chips, chanterelle mushroom sauce (kukeseenekaste), potatoes, and a kama-berry dessert. It felt incredible to get a literal taste of Estonian culture from the work of our own hands! The meal was delicious and many students took the recipes home to share with others.

 Happily stuffed with food, we crossed the city to the Estonian National Museum (ERM), the largest museum in Estonia. It was so extensive that just an overview of the exhibits lasted two hours and many students stayed longer to explore all of its nooks and crannies. The exhibits acted as a time machine into the past, taking us on a journey from contemporary Estonia to prehistoric times in this region. At Vabamu, we have more of a focus on contemporary Estonian history, so it was fascinating to learn more about the cultural origins of the country and its many ethnic groups. For instance, we learned that Seto women, native to the southeastern Estonian border, wear loud metal necklaces because it is said that if you hear them coming, you are granted good luck. Another highlight of our ERM experience was their “magic tickets,” which allowed you to download exhibit descriptions to remember what you learned when you returned home.

The following day, we started at the center of Tartu for a talk on its status as one of three European Capitals of Culture this year. It was interesting to hear how this title was an opportunity to bring a mix of international partnerships and Estonian artists to expand their tourist base and bring the Estonian experience to the forefront of Europe.

Next up we made our way to the Tartu University Museum and Cathedral, where we explored the historic building and learned more about the university’s history. One of the best parts of the exhibit included seeing models of what Tartu University dorms used to look like in the 1900s (which seemed pretty spacious when compared to our own) and trying on hats of Estonian student organisation.

From there we went to the AHHAA Science Center. While ostensibly geared towards children, “old” university students like us also had a blast in the museum’s extensive interactive exhibits. It was almost like an amusement park and museum combined, from a blanket slide to an interactive waterfall to a bike zip line! While there, we also had a “Synthesis of Smell” workshop, which involved mixing acids and bases to produce different scents. While many of us are humanities majors, it was an excellent opportunity to reconnect with our scientific side.

Our trip to Tartu was a whirlwind two days, packed with the perfect mix of education and fun. Many students even stayed a couple of days longer to visit more of the city and see the Tartu 2024 concerts and events. Overall, it was an excellent introduction to this extraordinary city.